The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) is non-profit organization that promotes education
and standards for US climbing guides and instructors. The AMGA is the only member organization in
the US to the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA). For more information
on the AMGA and its programs, please visit their website:
www.amga.com The Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) program was launched in early 2008 and is the evolution of its predecessor,
the Top Rope Site Manager (TRSM) program. The single biggest change is the addition of a lead component.
This instructor-level program allows candidates to earn a basic but valuable certification and to prepare for
higher-level Rock Discipline courses, such as the Rock Instructor Course (RIC). Click
here to view the AMGA Program Flow Chart
The SPI program is designed to enable professional or volunteer instructors to "proficiently facilitate and
instruct the sport of rock climbing in a single pitch setting." Please note that this program is for active,
proficient rock climbers who are aspiring or current instructors. It is NOT a course on how to climb, but a
course on how to teach others how to climb in a safe and professional manner.
The 3-day course is followed by a 2-day pass/fail examination of basic techniques for instructing climbing in
single pitch terrain. A single pitch climb is one which:
- is climbed without intermediate belays (NOT multi-pitch)
- presents no difficulties on approach or retreat, such as route finding, scrambling, or navigating.
All candidates must take the SPI course (or TRSM) in order to take the Assessment. Exceptionally experienced
candidates can apply to the SPI Discipline Coordinator for exemption from training.
The SPI program recently became the first and only US program of its kind to earn approval by the International
Mountaineering and Climbing Federation's (UIAA) Training Standards Working Group to meet international standards!
